Wines of the week: Two of Spain’s greatest appellations fly below the radar

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When most individuals consider Spain, Rioja might be what involves thoughts.

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Nothing towards Rioja — it has earned its repute. However after I consider Spain, the 2 appellations that come to thoughts are Ribera del Duero and Priorat, although for various causes. Right here’s why these two appellations are price your consuming funding.

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Ribera del Duero is southwest of Rioja. Like Rioja, the primary grape selection is tempranillo. However they differ in ways in which make them very totally different wines. Most necessary, whereas I might classify Rioja as a medium-bodied wine, Ribera wines will be very highly effective. Pouring the 2 aspect by aspect, simply the color, with Ribera being a lot darker, provides you a visible trace of the wine’s energy.

There are a lot of causes for this. Ribera wineries can add as much as 30-per-cent cabernet sauvignon and merlot to their blends. Rioja winemakers largely use the softer garnacha (grenache). Whereas each appellations are continental climates, Ribera has higher-altitude vineyards, which creates a big diurnal shift with temperatures hovering by way of the day however falling to maintain nights fairly cool. This enables for distinctive phenolic ripeness whereas on the identical time protecting its freshness.

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Each appellation are fabulous, however I preserve Rioja for white meats and particularly mushroom dishes. Riberawith its extra highly effective tannins and richer flavours make it certainly one of my favorite steak wines.

Positioned round 150 kilometres east of Barcelona, I’ve visited Priorat twice and have not often seen an appellation with such a putting topography that includes extremely steep hillsides that may solely be labored by hand, loaded with previous bush vines. What they produce is totally distinctive.

The do make fabulous whites, although they’re uncommon. The purple grapes are two of my favourites, garnacha and cariñena (carignan). What do they style like? I typically inform individuals they’re like Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe on steroids. I’m ballparking it right here because the wines are rather more highly effective than your common Châteauneuf.

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These previous bush vines and impoverished soils are the rationale. They produce small quantities of grapes, however they’re intensely concentrated. Relying on the place the winery is situated, the wines will both be carinena (carignan) or garnacha dominated. Previous-vine cariñena will not be not like cabernet sauvignon with darkish fruits and richly textured tannins. However even the garnacha, not like in most of its rising areas, has good acidities and wonderful tannins and may be very highly effective. It has an nearly nebbiolo-like texture. Fabulous. We’re beginning to see extra of those wines accessible on the SAQ, so give them a attempt.

Ribera del Duero 2020, Pruno, Finca Villacreces, Spain purple, $21.85, SAQ #11881940. Natural. Actually spectacular for the value. Juicy blackberry exact tannin construction with a smoky and spicy end. This screams for a barbecue. Grape varieties: tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon. Residual sugar: 1.9 g/l. Serve at 18 C. Drink now-2026. Meals-pairing concept: grilled T-bone with spice.

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Ribera del Duero 2019, Crianza, Celeste, Torres, Spain purple, $23.75, SAQ #11741285. Darkish-fruited, earthy, stuffed with spice. Tremendous-refined tannins that coat the mouth. This has a Bordeaux-like really feel with its energy and finesse. Residual sugar: 1.7 g/l. Grape selection: tempranillo. Serve at 16 C. Drink now-2025. Meals-pairing concept: lamb with mustard and thyme.

Priorat 2019, Giné Giné, Buil & Giné, Spain purple, $23.25, SAQ #11337910. Softer texture, fruitier, that is an easy-drinking Priorat, if that exists. Good mid-palate texture with ripe, purple fruits and many spice. Grape varieties: carignan, grenache. Residual sugar: 4.1 g/l. Serve at 16C. Drink now-2024. Meals-pairing concept: soya and ginger marinated brochettes.

Priorat 2018, Salmos, Torres, Spain purple, $40.75, SAQ #13950435. Extra carignan than grenache reveals the extra gamey, highly effective fringe of the Priorat. Complicated aromatics that vary from black fruit to dried herbs, sultry mid-palate and a pleasant tannic chunk. Magnificence and energy. Grape varieties: carignan, grenache, syrah. Residual sugar: 2 g/l. Serve at 18C. Drink now-2028. Meals-pairing concept: rib steak and spice.