Wines of the week: South African chenin blanc is likely one of the world’s finest values

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I’ve heard chenin blanc described as “the riesling of the Loire.” What is supposed by that is chenin might be onerous to know. I get it. I’ve bother exactly figuring out its aromatics, and resorted to easily calling it “chenin fruit.” It falls someplace in between melon, apricot, citrus and mandarine. Apparently, quince is the precise fruit, however I don’t know what that tastes like.

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It will possibly additionally range by way of texture. On this method, a greater comparability is likely to be pinot gris. When picked much less ripe, it will probably present the refreshing acidity of a superb high quality pinot grigio. However when harvested at full ripeness, it will probably method the fragrant depth and texture of Alsatian pinot gris. 

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These enigmatic qualities haven’t stopped me from accumulating these wines. After Alsatian pinot gris, it’s the grape that takes up probably the most area on my cellar cabinets. A well-made chenin, like pinot gris, can simply age for a decade, and infrequently extra. No surprise I prefer it a lot.

Regardless of it additionally makes fabulous glowing and desert wines, chenin blanc stays largely within the shadows as few locations deal with the grape. So whereas you could find just a few bottles in almost each wine area world wide, it actually solely has two houses, France’s Loire Valley and South Africa.

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South Africa? It’s a cool story that underlines how surprisingly previous wine making is within the nation. The unique plantings date again to the mid 1600s when the Cape of Good Hope was settled by Dutch shippers, the place they turned it right into a provide station as they travelled forwards and backwards from Europe to India.

These had been the primary plantings of chenin, or “steen” because it was recognized till 1963, when it was lastly recognized as chenin blanc. Winemaking was achieved largely by French Huguenots, Protestants who left France for South Africa after authorized recognition for his or her faith ended within the late 1600s. However many of the wine produced was used for distillation to make an necessary Dutch invention, brandy. To this present day, South African brandy is taken into account alongside cognac as one of many world’s finest. 

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As we speak, as brandy manufacturing has turn into much less necessary, South African wineries have entry to fields of previous vine chenin. And like within the Loire Valley, you could find totally different personalities in almost each bottling. Some are on the leaner facet, much less fruity and extra mineral. I drink them with asparagus. Different wines are extra textural and fragrant. They make an ideal pairing with seafood and lobster, one other spring delicacy that can quickly be upon us.

Chenin Blanc 2021, Western Cape, Reyneke, South Africa white, $20.40, SAQ # 14221242. Natural. One in all South Africa’s premier winemaking abilities with a extra reasonably priced providing than his distinctive Stellenbosch bottling. On the richer facet of the spectrum, exhibiting peach and citrus notes and a nuanced mineral end. Simply nice. Residual sugar: 3.8 g/l. Serve at 8-12C. Drink now-2026. Meals pairing thought: Aperitif, grilled scallop, fried calamari.

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Riviera 2022, Secateurs, Swartland, AA Badenhorst, South Africa Orange, $21.20, SAQ # 13995027. Whereas solely 75 per cent chenin blanc, I needed to embrace this nice “orange” wine. I really like the aromatics complexity, with that typical “steeped tea” observe, however a number of fruit as properly. I discovered  apricot, peach and grapefruit notes. Very good. Grape varieties: chenin blanc, grenache blanc. Residual sugar: 1.2 g/l. Serve at 8-14C. Drink now. Meals pairing thought: Aperitif, steak tartare, sushi.

Chenin Blanc 2022, Bot River, Beaumont Wines, South Africa white, $21.40, SAQ # 13225840. One of many wines I stay up for ingesting with each classic. That is the “goldilocks” chenin, strolling that excellent line between zippiness and texture. Honeysuckle and melon rule the fragrant roost. The end is mineral, barely salty. Residual sugar: 4 g/l.  Serve at 8-12C. Drink now-2026. Meals pairing thought: Aperitif, spicy shrimp, lobster rolls.

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Chenin blanc 2022, Cape West Coast, Fryer’s Cove, South Africa white, $25.45, SAQ # 15102561. Natural. Actually recent on first sip however, because it warms, the complexity and splendidly salty mineral observe reveals itself. Extra nectarine than mandarine, a touch of lemon and a contact of oak pushed spice add to the ensemble. Let this one heat up. Residual sugar: 2.6 g/l. Serve at 8-12C. Drink now-2027. Meals pairing thought: Aperitif, richer seafood like scallops or lobster.